Caryn Franklin - All Walks Lecture at Ravensbourne

Today, Caryn Franklin came to talk to us about All Walks, Beyond The Catwalk, which is an initiative that herself, Erin O'connor and Debra Bourne created to challenge the industry to use more diverse models and challenge the conventions of the 'typical' models we have all become accustomed to seeing on the catwalks.

Being quite interested in the topic, I was excited to hear what she had to say. Being in the industry for over 30's she's seen it all, from starting at iD Magazine back in the 80's to The Clothes show on the BBC, so if anyone is going to talk about the subject it's Caryn. One of the first things she mentioned is that everything has impact, especially as you grow up. If these young, thin, caucasian women and men are constantly thrust upon girls and boys who aspire to be like them, it's just going to promote an unhealthy next generation. It's not just even the models themselves which are promoting this image, but the use of sexualisation in imagery as well. Sex sells, and it always will as Caryn pointed out, but it's not all about using it.

It's not only going to take just one of the big publications such as Vogue to stand up and take note that not every women or man is young, thin and caucasian to make a difference. We need the entire industry, especially casting directors to start making changes. This can't just be a half-hearted job either as this wont change the perception. The success All Walks has achieved so far is immense. In 2009, they launched the Size Me Up campaign, Snapped at The National Portrait Gallery in 2011, where they placed a variety of imagery around the gallery next to particular paintings which gained a footfall of over 4,000 people in a night! These ladies are out in force and the industry should beware.

The talk has really inspired me to be less narrow minded and want to back the All Walks cause more than ever. If you read this and you agree and want to help make the change, go to the all walks site www.allwalks.org and take a look at more campaigns they've done!

September LFW 13 Round Up

Another September another Fashion Week down! New York went quick but LFW always flies and what a cracker it was. I must say I don't look forward to the SS shows as much as the AW just because I generally enjoying seeing winter clothes over the summer ones but nonetheless I had some definite favs of the week and a couple of disappointments.

I usually always enjoy Topshop Unique, winter or summer as they always put on a good show but I was really disappointed by the collection this season. It definitely lacked wow factor for me, even if Cara was opening and closing it. It could of been because last season they introduced a new interactive feature called 'model cam' which enabled viewers to see what the models were seeing with the use of cameras placed in their bags. This was interesting and new and the catwalk space was not the norm. All these features paired with the good collection made it really good and this year just didn't live up to it for me, sorry Toppers!

On a happier note, a show that never fails to deliver for me was Mulberry. The simple english heritage vibe it has always radiates through on the catwalk. I loved their use of brights, stripes and the matching totes were amazing. I'm also glad to see white is well and truly in again for next year. To top it all off, the British bull dog Turbo in his matching floral print mac was priceless! I don't know is this is becoming a permanent thing but I don't mind if it is; super cute.

Lily Coles interpretive dance was a er, different way of opening a fashion show this season but Vivienne Westwood has has always been a wild one, and this season was no different. None the less I thoroughly enjoyed it. The clothes themselves seemed quite tame, and there was one dress in particular, a navy 3/4 length sleeve shift dress which I could def see myself in. Not quite sure what I made of the zombie-esque make up but that can be over looked when the clothes are nice. Her Red Lebel signature draping neck lines were back as well which I loved.

My final fav would just have to be Erdem. I just found the collection absolutely beautiful; the lace dressing and ruffle trimming was stunning and just made me instantly feel summer after seeing it espesh in this sudden burst of cold weather. Also the majority of it was monochrome which of course is a winner for me. I did get a slightly gothic vibe for SS but I didn't mind it.

So these are just a few of my favs from this seasons LFW, were there any stand out shows for you?

LFW 2013 Feat. Oxford Street

Already an iconic fashion capital, London is adding a twist to this Septembers Fashion Week by joining with Oxford Street. There will be flags displaying A/W catwalk images from the likes of Giles, Alice Temperly and Topshop Unique.

Fashion emporiums from Selfridges, Topshop, River Island to John Lewis, House of Fraser, H&M and GAP will provide shoppers with a range of exclusive experiences, and insider insights into the world of national and international fashion. I think this is a really good way of getting the high street back on the map, since it seems to be fleeting away according to some.

As I type, LFW is in full swing, so will post my favs from the week once its all over, so until then, enjoy!

Black Is Beautiful

Super model Iman has recently said that more brands need to include black models in their shows and campaigns or risk people boycotting them. I don't think they'll be boycotted as such but I do think a more diverse use of models could and should be used. All being the same is boring, and brands are tending to stick to a certain type of girl for a show or campaign each season and not budge. This needs to change especially in such a fast moving industry as this, brands should be moving and changing with the times to stay current.

Brands know they'll stay in business even if they do carry on the way they are but they should keep it exciting by adding variety to their shows. In New York Fashion Week 2013, black models made up a mere 6% of the models booked; this is a 2% dropped from the previous year. But why is this? I just don't know is the answer. Maybe their are so many black models out their not getting recognised as only a handful at present are seen as 'supermodels' as such Iman and the more recent Jourdan Dunn who now has world wide success with a number of brands. Let's all hope the industry soon wakes up and uses more black models.

LFW September 2013 NEWGEN

Now the London Collections are over it's time to start thinking about September London Fashion Week - The January of Fashion.
This year it'll be running from 13th-17th September. The BFC have selected 9 lucky up and coming designers to show this September in the new designer initiative, NEWGEN sponsored by Topshop.

Five of the designers have been sponsored to show on the catwalk, four for a presentation and one for an exhibition. One of the first catwalk sponsors is Jackie Lee for J J.S Lee. The Korean born designer is described as being 'chic' and a 'minimalist.' Another lucky winner is Brazilian Lucas Nascimento who graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2008 and has spent the last three seasons showing in Rio Fashion Week - didn't even know that existed! He likes working especially with knitwear and enjoys created silhouettes that you wouldn't expect to see from it. Thirdly, Marques'Almeida, the design duo that are Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. (The next Dolce & Gabbana? We'll see.) They met at fashion school in Portugal, where they both graduated with Distinction. They both then moved to London and gained experience at vivienne Westwood. There work has been described as 'raw', 'young' and 'effortless.' Fourthly is Simone Rocha who's work is 'modern, strong and romantic' The Dublin based designer also graduated from Central St Martins. Sister by Sibling has three co-designers; Sid Byran, Joe Bates and  Cozette McCeery. They're from London, Leicester and Yorkshire and have said expect everything to be knitted - I'm intrigued by these three.

One of the first Presentation sponsors is 1205 by Paula Gerbase. Another graduate of CSM, she has 5 years experience working on Savile Row. So we can expect immaculate tailoring from this girl. Secondly, Nazir Mazhar - who I've previously mentioned in a post (this guy is doing well for himself.) And Lastly, Sophia Webster, who has been the design assistant at Nicholas Kirkwood since graduating from RCA in 2010. Expect, feminine lines, and single soles.

The one exhibition winner is Liam Fahy due to his innovative shoe designs. While studying at DeMontfort he won the Drapers Footwear Designer of the Year, so we can expect some major shoe poor from this guy.

Over all looking through some of the designers work, I'm excited to see what they pull out of the this September. I may also have the chance to work during the week as I'm now a uni student, which is such an exciting opportunity which I missed out on back in January. Will keep you posted if I do or not but definitely look up these lucky designers.

GFW 2013

Graduate Fashion Week is fast approaching, and now I'm at uni, the fashion design course where I'm studying is involved. For those that aren't aware of GFW, it's one of the leading events for fashion graduates, where they get a chance to showcase their work to the industry, and potentially get jobs from it. So it's pretty major; especially as fashion design jobs are so sparse nowadays. It's also an opportunity for students to represent the future in fashion, something innovative to really impress industry experts.

Over 1,000 graduates are involved each year from the most influential universities up and down the UK including Nottingham Trent and UCA so it's mega cool that my uni can be part of it. The event this year is from Sunday June 2nd - Wednesday June 5th at Earls Court and you can by tickets via the website http://www.gfw.org.uk/tickets/catwalk/. If the catwalk isn't your thang, you can choose to buy tickets to the exhibition instead via the same link above.

According to Vogue, the show is under reconstruction this year, as it aims to streamline the performances by focusing on fewer universities each day and also having fewer awards on each day to allow for a bigger Gala day at the end of the week. Rob Templeman, the weeks chairman has said that he hopes 'the new Gala day will allow for a more intimate affair, and showcase how great the students work is.'

Colin McDowell has now become a trustee for the event. The respected fashion journalist joins the charity's executive committee alongside fellow writer Hilary Alexander, British designer Mark Eley and Professor Wendy Dagworthy of the Royal College of Art.

"I am very pleased to have become a trustee of Graduate Fashion Week as I am convinced that its nationwide brief to help and encourage students and academic staff across the whole country is a necessary antidote to the erroneous idea that because British fashion is shown mainly in London it is only the products of London fashion colleges that matter," he said.

Anna Stephenson GFW 2011

I hope you're all as excited as I am for this. Even though I don't do design, I'm more than happy to support my uni, and hope they win big this year!